freshly baked banana bread, out feet are aching from walking for hours
along the sand and shells and the doglets are exhausted. We left the
other campground this morning after watching yet another sunrise over
the Sea of Cortez. This one was not so colorful or dramatic, but hey
- it's another day full of promise and adventure..... Even the trash
bins in this place had flowers painted on them. And then I sat
drinking an early morning cup of coffee and heard some music playing.
It sounded like a full orchestra, so I grabbed the camera again and
headed out in that direction... and there were three fishermen
getting their nets ready, jiving to the music that was blaring from a
portable radio on the sand! The birds screeched in circles above them
and the feeling was so good and whole and fresh.
And then off we tootled, further south some more. We had had a
restless night as Allie, for some reason, would not settle down and go
to sleep! It's amazing how 3.9 pounds can disrupt hours of what
should be peaceful sleep! Anyway, with coffee firmly in hand,
everything packed and snugged away we slowly trundled out of there at
around 8am again. We did not have a long way to go today to the stop
over we wanted to check out so it was an easy, slow drive through
Muluge (Moo-La-Hay) the the Bahia Concepcion and Coyote Bay. I know
that it quite probable that many would think the scenery boring and
much of the same, but its so............old! The cactus are huge, the
rocks and the nothing-ness in between have been there forever and will
be for a long time still to come. Its a weird feeling driving through
almost deserted countryside. Again there are impossible little
settlements dotted all over and we stopped at a store at one of these
in search of some necessities. Frank bought the necessary stuff while
I checked out the shell art and their other goodies. There was not
much, but I managed to find a thing or two - and on we went.
Mulege apparently has incredibly narrow streets and I had read that it
was definitely not a good idea for us to even consider going through
there with this rig - and we are not big at all! So we scooted around
the outsides of the town wondering at the age of the buildings and how
some seemed to still be there even thought they looked well past their
prime. It actually was a pretty little town, what we could see of
it....
And then over the hill we came and around a corner and my breath was
swept away! Picture a perfect place to stay for a while. Multiple
shades of blue water glistening in the sunshine with a few good sized
sailboats anchored in the bay, islands all around, white sand, palapas
made from palm fronds on the beach, rocky corners to explore, a few
campers here and there, birds coasting gently in the sunshiny sky and
and and..............all for $4 a night! Yup - four dollars! And
here we are. This is a really beautiful place, its quiet, even though
the trucks use their air brakes going by its peaceful and totally
beautiful.
The motorhome had barely stopped rolling and my camera and I were
already capturing the scenery, smell and aaaaaaaaaahhhhhh. Frank
reversed us into a spot that puts the back of the rv right on the
beach and the view out of the back window from the lounge is of the
blue ocean with a yacht happily bobbing around out there..... And we
went for a loooooong walk, stopping along the way to chat to a few
others who all sat soaking up the sun or walking the waterline.
Around the corner the shrubbery grew over the rocks that were there
and leaned over into the water. We walked in the water to get around
and before I could do anything, there was Sophie paddling away loudly
right next to me! She had space to walk next to Allie, but seemed to
want to swim. It was cute. We found a good many really lovely
shells, found a huge walled in place that looks private, but I sneaked
in and took a photo of the huge whale skeleton in the front yard! It
was really huge..... and then around another corner we went and the
wind hit us pretty hard but we had to keep going as the water in this
little bay was a totally incredibly green! Not dirty green or yukky
green, but precious-stone-that-I-cant-think-of-the-name-of-right-now
green. It's as if my jaw muscles just stopped working as we watched
the pelicans playing in this water with more islands dotted all over
in the bay and the white caps dancing merrily on the water. The wind
whipped up some wavelets and the two campers there had people all
dressed in jackets and all. So back we went to our own paradise,
back around the corner where the wind was less determined.
Oh its really indescribable - words literally fail me in trying to
tell you what this place looks like, but we agreed that it needs a
different name than what it has. Right now its called Camp
Santispac...... we have renamed it Katies Camp! Sis - this is
absolutely you...... The water is almost totally see through clear
for a good way out, little fish swim lazily by while making sure we
are not pelicans after them, the shells wash gently to shore unbroken
as there are no waves as such at all. The birds wheel and dance in
the sky, riding the eddies up there. White fluffy clouds wandered
across the sky in lonely little tufts. People are friendly and happy,
with old men in bright purple swimming trunks and very tanned ladies
showing a tad more skin than I would right now. It's really a gently
lovely place, and each time my camera jumped up, I noticed that the
coloring of the water had changed slightly or the general lighting had
deepened or softened. Yes, yes, I have a gazillion photos of Katies
Camp :)
We fed the gulls some bread stuff that we bought the other day in
Guerrero Negro and did not like. Well, they loved it! I got them to
eat right out of my hand and took pics while they did it too and got
some really good close ups of gulls eyes..... Why, you ask. Cause I
could..... :) The gull crowd started with about 15 of them and in a
very short space of time we had close to 50 of them all screaming and
pecking to get some bread! The pelicans arrived too, but they sat at
the waters edge watching the hooligan gulls fighting and screaming.
Then after all the bread was done, the gulls raced off to the water
and we could almost see the bay empty out as they all gulped
away...... The pelicans then started their own meal, chasing those
little fish in a most ungainly way. I could almost not believe what I
was seeing as they literally dove into the water with their beaks wide
open. Not straight down as one sees in the movies, but sideways.
Well, when they hit the water it makes a huge splash and literally
flings the bird around 360 degrees! I have a good few photos of them
with legs and wings where legs and wings of pelicans are not normally
seen!
And the minivans and cars arrived as we sat on the edge of the beach
sipping on a beer and drinking in the view........... "HOLA!" we hear
each time, and peer around the back end of the rv to find yet another
wide smile with sparkly eyes attached..... We were left in no doubt
that we actually did want and need every item they were selling and
their job was just to let us know this..... So, with about 6
different groups approaching us over a good few hours we managed to
buy only a 3 pound bag (about $10) of the most delicious shrimp, some
freshly baked banana bread, awesome strawberries, a 'silver' ring,
some goodies for the grandchillins, a simply beautiful blanket,
ponchos, a brightly colored hammock and and and.......... all sorts of
goodies. And then I told the last guy to tell his buddies that we
will not buy anything else at all! No one else arrived...... phew!
One of these guys was really friendly and I asked if I could get a
photo of him and me....... Yes! he said and promptly turned around,
grabbed another brightly colored blanket that he draped over my
shoulder, plonked a huge hat on my head, flung his arm around my
shoulder and sported a smile that any toothpaste company would die
for!! What a lovely moment. Frank got the pics.
I really feel so free here, its lovely beyond description and totally
awesome to see these places and meet these people.. Now its 8pm and
pitch dark outside - I can hear the water lapping up against the sand
and the wind has died down. Its totally peaceful and time to go to
sleep. There is no electricity, water or dump station here and I
don't want to use too much of the battery either. A good reason for
an early night.
love and light
Annie
http://photobucket.com/BajaBaggs09
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